From the Environmental Working Group

"For more than 20 years drug companies have used penetration enhancing chemicals to deliver patch drugs like birth control and nicotine deeper and faster through the skin and into the blood vessels below. In some cases penetration enhancers increase absorption of a drug by 100-fold relative to absorption without the enhancer (Karande et al. 2004).

Although not necessarily added to cosmetics for the purpose of enhancing penetration, many ingredients used in cosmetics happen to have that property. A recent review of penetration enhancers by scientists at the Drug Delivery Group at the University of Bradford, West Yorkshire, UK, notes common cosmetic chemicals that are used in drug delivery applications (propylene glycol and sodium lauryl sulfate, for example) (Williams and Barry 2004). The cosmetic industry's safety panel has acknowledged the use of penetration enhancers in cosmetics, and warns the industry to consider their effect in combination with ingredients the panel deemed safe based on an assumption of low absorption."

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Feeding the Skin

OUR SKIN, the largest organ in the body, acts as a protective barrier against microorganisms and harmful chemicals from the outside world. But this barrier is not sealed--it is permeable and will absorb water, vitamins and minerals while expelling toxins and waste products. Unfortunately, the skin can sometimes take in materials that are not good for us. Many lotions and other skin products contain synthetic ingredients derived from petroleum (mineral oil) and may also have various chemicals to extend shelf life. To make matters worse, some skin products have "penetration enhancers" (see left sidebar), which increase a product's ability to push its chemical payload through the skin and into the bloodstream, where it can travel throughout the body. Trace amounts of skin lotion chemicals have even been found in breast tissue.

In other words, that jar of fragrant, pleasantly colored goop that you are about to rub all over yourself may promise eternal youth and beauty, but it may actually be poisoning you! A good rule is to avoid putting on your skin anything that you would not eat. Look at the ingredients carefully and remember that just because a skin product is labelled "natural" and sold in a health food store doesn't mean that you should let it inside your body. Here is a good source of information which can help you evaluate specific products and ingredients.

"It's hard to believe that our government would allow harmful substances into cosmetics and skin care products!"

Yes, it is hard to believe. For years, it has been argued that the harmful substances in these products were of such small quantities that they should not be of concern. But studies have indicated that when consumers use these products for long periods of time, there is a cumulative effect which can have adverse outcomes.

"Why do manufacturers make products with questionable ingredients?"

Money. Products made with natural, chemical-free ingredients cost significantly more to make than products made from synthetic ingredients such as mineral oil and petroleum jelly. Profits are also enhanced by extending product shelf life with chemical additives. The question is equivalent to "why do restaurants serve junk food?" It is often easier and cheaper to make a product look attractive than to make it with wholesome and unharmful ingredients.

"If the ingredients say 'all natural,' does this mean that they are not harmful?"

Any substance containing carbon can arguably be called "natural." Carbon-based substances include man-made materials as well as materials found in nature. Even products claiming to have "all natural" ingredients may include petroleum-based and synthetic chemicals mixed with varying amounts of "really" natural ingredients such as olive oil, shea butter, or coconut oil.

MAKE YOUR OWN MOISTURIZER!

The following recipe makes about 100 ml (3.38 oz) of a moisturizing skin oil. Make sure that you only use "cold pressed oils"--oils obtained through pressing and grinding fruits and seeds with the use of heavy granite millstones or modern stainless steel presses. Cold pressed oils retain all of their flavor, aroma, and nutritional value.

Blend together:

40 ml (8 tsp) almond oil

20 ml (4 tsp) apricot kernel oil

20 ml (4 tsp) virgin coconut oil

20 ml (4 tsp) jojoba oil

10 drops of geranium essential oil

10 drops of lavender essential oil

10 drops of orange essential oil

10 drops of lemongrass essential oil

Store this mixture in a dark glass bottle away from sunlight. It will keep for up to 30 months. Essential oils are great natural preservatives.